Top Section
Row 1. To begin Ch 2, work 2 dc into the 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 turn. (2)
(pull the tail end to tighten and neaten the slip knot)
Row 2. Work 2 dc into each of the dc st from previous row , ch 1 turn (4)
Row 3. Work 2 dc into the first st, dc, dc, 2 dc in the last st, ch 1 turn (6)
Rows 4 - 7. Work 2 dc into the first and last sts, and a single dc in each st along the row until you have 14 sts, ch 1 turn. Work 5 sl sts along, ch 1.
Rows 2 - 7. Always work 2 dc in first and last sts, with single dc sts in between them. Each row will increase by two sts, until you end up with 16 sts on the 7th row, ch 1 turn, work 5 sl sts along, ch 1.
Rows 2 - 7 Same as the middle section work 2 dc in the first and last sts, with 1 dc worked in each st along. You will end up with 18 sts on Row 7, ch 1 turn, work 7 sl sts along, ch 1.
With right side facing you make a sl st just underneath the point of the bottom section of the tree, position the first bell right up to the hook, but out of the way whilst you make a dc in next st (see below)
Always work 2 dc in the same st at each corner (this is a little tricky on some of the points - just work the corner where your hook can squeeze into). Work 1 dc in each space along till you get to the turning point to start the next section of the tree (see photo below).
I found that working a sl st before starting the next section of the tree reduced the bulk of yarn between each section - it just looked better on mine. It's not exact so try this with yours and see if it makes any difference.
The picture above shows where I've positioned the 'bauble' before making the next stitch. I found the best place to work them is just under the pointed section. If you attach them on the point of the tree they stick out horizontally from the branch, and don't dangle properly.
When you get to the top point of the tree work a dc, tr, ch 15 (for the hanging loop) sl st into top of tr to secure loop, dc all in the same stitch. (You may need to reduce or increase the amount of chains according to the thickness of your yarn for the hanging loop). Continue in the same way down for the other side of the tree. Finish with a sl st after the final bauble has been added. Fasten off and weave in ends.
With the wrong side facing you, pin the motif onto a foam pad covered with an old towel. Pin and stretch each point into place, then with a brush spread some PVA glue all over the main tree and pot sections, making sure you work the glue all the way to the points to stiffen and strengthen the motif. Make sure they are completely dry before you unpin them.
You could pop them on a home-made Xmas card, decorate the Xmas tree, string them together to make a Xmas garland, or stitch one onto a stocking - just a few suggestions! I'm going to make a larger one to hang from the rear view mirror in the car which I'll share with you soon.
If you do decide to incorporate them into your own designs then I would really appreciate that you link them back to me as the original designer.
I really hope you have lots of festive fun making these. I'd love to hear your feedback on this - your comments are very much appreciated.
Row 2. Work 2 dc into each of the dc st from previous row , ch 1 turn (4)
Row 3. Work 2 dc into the first st, dc, dc, 2 dc in the last st, ch 1 turn (6)
Rows 4 - 7. Work 2 dc into the first and last sts, and a single dc in each st along the row until you have 14 sts, ch 1 turn. Work 5 sl sts along, ch 1.
Middle Section
Row 1. Work a dc in each of the next 4 sts, ch 1 turn. (4)Rows 2 - 7. Always work 2 dc in first and last sts, with single dc sts in between them. Each row will increase by two sts, until you end up with 16 sts on the 7th row, ch 1 turn, work 5 sl sts along, ch 1.
Third Section
Row 1. Work a dc in the next 6 sts, ch 1 turn. (6)
Rows 2 - 7 Same as the middle section work 2 dc in the first and last sts, with 1 dc worked in each st along. You will end up with 18 sts on Row 7, ch 1 turn, work 7 sl sts along, ch 1.
Base
*Work 1 dc into the next 4 sts, ch 1 turn*. Work * to * another 3 times. Fasten off.
Decorative Edging
Thread six metallic balls onto the yarn, then attach the yarn to the hook with a slip knot. (I had to cut my yarn to size for this part, and thread them all the way to the end - the metallic bells kept snagging and fraying the yarn whilst they were on the thread waiting to be worked in. I was really surprised at how much yarn I used to outline the tree. I measured the yarn from my fingers to my elbow then worked this length another eight times before I snipped the yarn - it measured about 125 inches/ 317.5 cms - so do it this way if you have the same problem).With right side facing you make a sl st just underneath the point of the bottom section of the tree, position the first bell right up to the hook, but out of the way whilst you make a dc in next st (see below)
Always work 2 dc in the same st at each corner (this is a little tricky on some of the points - just work the corner where your hook can squeeze into). Work 1 dc in each space along till you get to the turning point to start the next section of the tree (see photo below).
When you get to the top point of the tree work a dc, tr, ch 15 (for the hanging loop) sl st into top of tr to secure loop, dc all in the same stitch. (You may need to reduce or increase the amount of chains according to the thickness of your yarn for the hanging loop). Continue in the same way down for the other side of the tree. Finish with a sl st after the final bauble has been added. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Block
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If you do decide to incorporate them into your own designs then I would really appreciate that you link them back to me as the original designer.
I really hope you have lots of festive fun making these. I'd love to hear your feedback on this - your comments are very much appreciated.
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